Sewing-machine.



F. ZALESKL SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 0513.20.1915. RENEWED 11111.9.1911.

1 ,2 1 6,536 Patented Feb. 20, 1917.

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F. ZALESKI.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED DEC. 20, 1915. RENEWED JAN. 9.1911.

11. ,21 6,58%. Patented Feb. 20, 1917.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

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F. ZALESKI.

7 SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED Mo. 20. 1915.' RENEWED JAN. 9. 1911.

1]. ,2 1 6,536. Patented Feb. 20, 1917.

' 3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

FRANK ZALESKI, OF SOMERVILLE, JNIASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE REECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Application filed December 20, 1915, Serial No. 67,695.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK ZALESKI, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, residing at Somerville, county of MiddleseX, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing repre senting like parts.

This invention relates to sewing machines and particularly to a device for automatically cutting the needle thread at the end of a predetermined sewing operation and holding the severed end of the thread until after the initial stitches have been formed on the next succeeding sewing operation, thus insuring the proper formation of the first stitches.

lVhile the invention may be applied to various types of sewing machines, I find that it is particularly applicable to a buttonhole sewing machine, and especially to one in which the work-holding means and stitchi orming mechanism have a relative movement after the stitching on the buttonhole has been completed to carry the work from stitching position into buttonhole cutting position, and I have herein chosen to illustrate my invention as it would be applied to a sewing machine of this type.

My improved thread-cutting and clamping device is of that construction which is rendered operative to cut and clamp the thread by the relative movement between the work-holding means and the stitchforming mechanism after the completion of the stitching operation on a buttonhole and while the buttonhole is being carried into buttonhole-cutting position.

In order to give an understanding of the invention I have shown it as it might be applied to a bnttonhole sewing machine of the so-called Reece type in which the work-holding i'n'eans is moved relative to the stitch-forming mechanism to carry the but tonliole from buttonhole-cntting position to stitchingposition and then to give the buttonhole the feeding movement "for stitching around the edge of the buttonhole and then for returning the buttonhole to buttonhole cutting position. 'An example of a sewing machine of this type is illustrated in United States Patent No. 1,030,589, June 25, 1912.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Renewed January 9, 1917. Serial No. 141,497.

I wislnhowever, to state that my invention is not limited in its use to a sewing machine of this particular type.

The object of my present invention is to provide an improved thread clamp and cutter which is simple in its construction, accurate in its operation, and which can be readily adjusted so as to provide for releas ing the thread at any desired time after the stitching operation begins thereby providing means for controlling the length of the projecting thread end, and can also be readily adjusted so as to insure that the thread will be cut at the proper time, regardless of the size of thebuttonhole, and otherwise to improve thread clampingand cutting devices for sewing machines, all as will be more fully hereinafter set forth and then pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a fragmentary side view of a portion of a buttonhole sewing machine of the general type illustrated in the United States Patent No. 1,030,589, showing my improved construction;

Fig. 2 is a plan view ofthe work holder and the thread-cutting device;

Fig. 3 is afragmentary side view of my improved thread cutter and clamp showing in full lines the position of the parts just after the work has been clamped and in dotted lines the position of the work clamp when the work has been moved from cutting to stitching position;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged plan view of the part shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3 showing the position of the parts at the completion of the stitching on the buttonhole;

Fig. 6 is a. view similar to Fig. 4 showing the parts in the position illustrated in Fig. 5;

Fig. 7 is an enlarged section on the line '7 7, Fig. 6.

Inasmuch as my invention relates simply to a. thread cutter and clamp, I have not deemed it necessary to illustrate an entire sewing ma chine, but have only shown a sail cient portion thereof to give an understanding of the construction and operation and application of my improvement.

1 indicates the bed plate of a sewing machine from which rises the usual overhanging arm 2 carrying the upper thread-handling mechanism which is herein shown in the form of-a reciprocatingneedle bar 3 carrying an eye-pointed needle 4.. This needle 4 cooperates with the under threadhandling mechanism (not shown) to concatenate the edge stitches of the buttonhole as usual in buttonhole sewing machines of this type. 5 indicates the usual work clampswhich are shown as carried by arms 7 6 pivotally mounted at 7 to a work clamp plate 8 on which the work'w is supported, said work being clamped in position agalnst the clampplate by the work clamps 5, all

as provided for in the abovermentioned patent.

'9 indicates the usual buttonhole cutter by whiclrthe buttonhole is cut. 7 v V The parts above'referred to are or may 'be such as are usually. found in buttonhole sewingmachines of the type illustrated in the above-mentioned patent, and as they form no part of my present invention and their construction and operation -W1ll be j work a feeding movement while the stitches areformed around the edges of the button hole, and when the stitching has been completedto return the work to buttonhole-cut-- ting position. This movement of the clamp [plate 8 is derived from a cam groove 90 formed in a rotary cam element 10,.said

camgroove receiving a roll 11 depending from the slide 12 which is connected to the Work clamp plate 8, all. as providedin said patent No. 1,080,589.

I My improved thread clamp and cutter is associated With the work clamps and is of that type involving thread-clamping and cutting jaws which are opened automatically when the stitching operation on a buttonhole has been completed and which are situated so that during the movement of the work clamps subsequent to the stitching operation by which the work is carried from st tching-to buttonhole-cutting position, the

. needle thread t will be drawn between the 'aws said 'aws then closin to cut the thread i 7 i 23 and clamp it. The thread-clamping jaws comprise a stationary jaw 13 and a movable jaw 14. The stationary jaw13 is carried by an arm 15which is fixedly secured to one 01' 7' the arms 6 by nieans'of a screw'16 so that the jaw 18 is rigid with the work clamps 5 and moves up and down therewith. The niovableclamping jaw 14' is carried by an arm '17 which is pivotally connected to the arm .15 at 18 so as to permit saidjaws to move toward'and from'ea'ch other. 19 institching position.

dicates a spring which is coiled about the stud 18-, one end of which engages a pin 24) extending from the arm 17, said spring tending normally to hold the clamping jaws in their closed relation. Means are provided for momentarily opening said jaws as the work is being moved from stitching position to buttonhele-cutting position, so that the needle thread will be carried between them and clamped thereby, and for opening them again to release the thread as the first stitches are being formed on the next buttonhole. For this purpose the swinging arm 17 is provided with a cam projection 21 which is adapted to engage a roll 2" on the end of a swinging actuator 23 which is herein shown as an arm pivoted to the bed plate 1 at 24'. This arm so has a finger or extension 25 rigid therewith which plays between two adjustable stops 26 and 27 herein shown in the form of adjusting screws screw-threaded intosplit bosses The actuating arm 2 and the bosses 28 are herein shown as carried by a plate 29 which is rigidly secured to the base plate 1. The operation of the device is as follows:

hen the machine has stopped after the completion of. the stitching operation on a V buttonhole, the parts are in the position shown in Fig. 1, that is, the work clamps 5 are raised and the clamp plate 8 and the stitch-forming mechanism have such a relative position that the work clamps are in the rear of the needle. hen the work is placed beneath the work clamps and the machine is set in operation by depressing the usual starting lever or trip device 30, the work clamps are first automatically depressed into contact with the work, thus clamping the latter against the clamp plate 8 and the buttonhole cutter 9 is operated to cut the buttonhole. \Vhen this has been done, the clamp plate 8 and the stitch-forming mechanism have a relative movement to bring the work from buttonhole-cutting position into Fig. 3 shows in full lines the relative position of the parts im mediately after the work has been clamped and when it is in position to have the buttonhole cut. After thebuttonhole has been. cut, the clamp plate 8 and work clamps 5 move forward in the direction of the arrow a, Figs. 3 and 1, into the dotted line position, Fig. 3, and full line position, Fig. l, which brings the work into stitching position. The stitching operation is then started automatically, as usual in machines of this type, and the clamp plate 8 is then given a feeding movement first in the direction of the arrow (1, Figs. 3 and +1, and then in the opposite direction, to carry the stitches down one side of the buttonhole Z) and then along the other side of the buttonhole, it being understood that the stitch-forming mechanism will be rotated by usual mechanism so as to cause the stitches to be formed around the eye end of the buttonhole.

When the stitching on the buttonhole has been completed, the parts are in substantially the position shown in Figs. 5 and 6 and the stitch-forming mechanism is automatically stopped. The clamp plate 8 then has a movement in the direction of the arrow 5, Figs. 5 and 6, to carry the work back into buttonhole-cutting position, which is that shown in full lines Fig. 3. During this latter movement of the work clamp, the thread-clamping jaws 13 and 1 1 are automatically opened, as shown in Fig. 6. These thread-clamping jaws are so positioned that during the final relative movement between the work clamp and stitch-forming mechanism to carry the work from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position, the needle thread 25 extending from the needle to the work will be carried between said thread clamping jaws. Just before the work clamp reaches its rearward position the clamping jaws are closed onto the needle thread to clamp the latter. The stationary threadclamping jaw 13 has associated therewith a thread cutter 31 which co6pera-tes with the jaw 14 to sever the thread as the jaws are closed. This operation of opening the thread-clamping jaws and then closing them is secured from the actuator 23, cam projection 21 and spring 19. During the sewing of the buttonhole, the roll 22 will be situated in the rear of the cam projection 21, and as the clamp plate 8 moves in the direction of the arrow 5, the cam projection 21 will come into contact with the roll 22, and the swinging actuator 23 will be turned by the pressure of the cam against the roll until the finger 25 strikes the stop 27, as shown in Fig. 6. As the clamp plate 8 continues to move toward the right, Fig. 6, the cam 21 will wipe by the projection 22, this operation resulting in separating the thread-clamping aw 14: from the stationary jaw 13, as shown in Fig. 6. The stop 27 is so adjusted that this operation of opening the thread-clamping jaws will occur just after the stitching on the buttonhole has been completed, and the stitch-forming mechanism has been brought to rest, so that during the movement pf the work from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position the needle thread i will be carried between the open thread-clamping jaws 13 and 14:. Before the clamp plate 8 has completed its movement to the right, the cam 21 has wiped by the roll 22 and the spring 19 then comes into play to. close the thread-clamping jaws automatically, thus clamping the needle thread, and during this closing movement of the jaws the thread cutter 31 operates to cut the needle thread. This closing of the jaws occurs before the work clamps 5 are released'so that the thread is severed close to the work. After the thread has been severed and clamped, the worleclamping jaws 5 are released, as usual, and are automatically carried into their elevated position shown in Fig. 1. The needle thread is thus cut and held by the thread clamp at the end of the stitching operation and the thread clamp will maintain its clamping engagement on the thread until the stitching is started on the next buttonhole. When the machine is thus started in operation again and the work clamp S is moved to the left, Fig. 3, into the dotted line position, the cam projection 21 will engage the roll 22 and will swing the actuator 23until the stop finger 25 comes against the stop proj ection 26, as shown in Fig. 4. As the clamp plate continues its movement in the direction a, Fig. 4, the engagement of the projection 21 with the roll 22 will open the thread-clamping jaws thereby releasing the end. of the needle thread. The stop 26 will be so adjusted as to open the thread-clamping jaws just after the initial stitches have been formed on the buttonhole. The thread. is thus securely held while the first stitch is being formed, thus insuring the proper formation of said first stitch. By adjusting the stop screw 26, the time of the release of the thread can be varied. If the thread is released at the proper time during the formation of the first stitch or stitches, the operation of tightening the stitch or stitches will draw the end of the thread down into the work so that no projecting end can be seen. One the other hand, if the adjusting is such that the thread is not released until after several stitches have been formed, then the end of the thread which has been held by the clamp will project slightly above the surface of the work. The particular adjustment of the actuating member will depend upon the character of the work and upon the results desired. These adjustable stops 26 and 27 provide a means by which a very accurate adjustment of the actuator 23 can be obtained and by which the desired adjustment will be maintained during the operation of the machine.

The swinging actuator 23 and the adjustable stops 26 and 27 also provide a construction by whiclpthe thread-clamping jaws are opened to receive the needle thread when the work-clamping means is in one position and are again opened to release the thread when the work-clamping means is in another position. 1

The device also has the advantage that it can be adjusted to operate properly regardless of the length of the buttonhole. It is necessary, of course, that the thread-clamp ing jaws should open to release the thread and should be closed to clamp and sever the thread at the proper time in the cycle of operationswhether the buttonhole is a long or a short one, and properly adjusting the stop screws 26-and 27 this end may be secured. r V

I The device s extremely simple in its construction and is accurate in its operation.

-When onceproperly adjusted, it requires no attention onthe part of the operator.

While I have illustrated a selected emfbodiinent of my invention, I'donot wish to be limited .to the construction shown.

'Ielaim: i

1. Ina buttonhole sewing machine, the

l combination with stitch-forming mechanism including areci nrocatingeye-pointed needle,

otwork-holdmg'means, means to give the work-holding means a work-feeding movement whilethe edge stitches on the buttonhole are being formed i and an additional movement after the stitching on the buttonhole is completed to carry the work into buttonhole-cutting position, 7 and means situated above the work and renderedoperative by such additional movement to cut the needle thread. a 7 V V V 2.111 a buttonhole sewing machine, the

' combination with stitclrforming mechanism includin g a reciprocating eye-pointed needle,

of work-holding means, means to give the work holdmg means a work-feeding movenrentwhile theedge stitches onwthe buttonhole are being formed and an additional movement afterthe stitching on the button 7 hole is completed to carry the work into buttonholercu'ttingposition, and means situated above the work and rendered operative by suchadditional movement to cut theneedle 7 thread and clamp the severed end thereof.

' "SI'In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combinatlon with stitch-forming mechanlsm movementafter the stitching on thebuttonhole'is completed to carry the work into but tonhole-cutting' position, and means situated above the'work and rendered operative by such additional-movement to clamp the needle thread, said means operatingto release the thread after the stitching operation has been commenced on theneXt succeeding 'butttonhole.

4J-In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combinationawlth stitch-forming mechanlsm including a'rec proc'atmg eye-pointed needle,

of work-holdingmeans, means to give the ivorleholding means a work-feeding movement while-the edge stitches on the buttonhole are beinggformed and an additional movement after-the stitching on the button "hole is completed to carry the work into-buttonhole-cuttin position, and means situated f abo've the fwori and rendered operative by such additionalmovement to cut-the needle thread and clamp the severed end thereof, said means operating to release the thread after the stitching operation has been commenced on the next succeeding buttonhole.

5. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formin g mechanism including a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, of work-holding means, means to move the work-holding means thereby to carry the work from buttonhole-cutting to stitching position, and then to give the work a workfeeding movement, and then to return the work to buttonhole-cutting position, a pair of thread-clamping jaws carried by the work-holding means, and means rendered operative by or through the movement of the work-holding means to cause said jaws to clamp'the needle thread while the work is moving from buttonhole-stitching to buttonhole-cutting position, and to release the.

needle thread after the stitching operation 'has been commenced on the next buttonhole.

6. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a stitcl1-forini1ig mechanism including a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, of work-holding means, means to give the work-holding means a movement to carry the work from buttonhole-cutting to stitching position and then to feed the work as'the edge stitches are being formed, and then to return the work to buttonholecutting position, a pair of thread-clamping jaws carried by the work-holding means, automatically-operative means tending to close said jaws, and means rendered operative by the movement of the work-holding means to momentarily open said threadclamping jaws while the work is being carried from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position whereby said needle thread is carried'between said jaws and clamped thereby, and to open said jaws to release the thread after the stitching has started on the next succeeding buttonhole.

7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a stitelrforming mechanism including a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, of work-holding means, 1neans to give the work-holding means a movement to carry the work from buttonhole-cutting to stitching position and then to feed the work as the edge stitches are being formed and then to return the work to buttonhole cutting position, a pair of thread-clamping jaws carried by the work-holding means, automatically-operative means tending to close said jaws, means rendered operative by the movement of the work-holding means to momentarily open said thread-clamping jaws while the work is being carried from stitching to buttonhole-cutting position whereby said needle thread is carried between said jaws and clamped thereby and toopen saidjaws to release the thread after "the stitching has started on the next sueceeding buttonhole, and a thread-cutting device associated with the thread-clamping jaws.

8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitchforming mechanism including a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, of work-holding means, means to move the work-holding means relative to the frame thereby to shift the work relative to the stitch-forming mechanism, a pair of relatively-movable thread-clamping jaws carried by the workholding means, and a swinging actuator carried by the frame and rendered operative by the movement of the work-holding means to momentarily open the jaws at the end of the stitching operation thereby to permit the needle thread to be carried between and become clamped by them and to release said thread when the stitching has been commenced on the next succeeding buttonhole.v

9. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitchforming mechanism, of work-holding means, means to move the Work-holding means on the frame thereby to move the work carried thereby relative to the stitch-forming mechanism, a fixed and a movable thread-clamping jaw mounted on the Work-holding means, a cam projection rigid with the movable jaw, and a swinging actuator carried by the frame and adapted to engage said cam projection during the movement of the work-holding means thereby to cause the jaws to clamp the needle thread at the end of the stitching operation and to release the needle thread at the beginning of the next succeeding stitching operation.

10. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitchforming mechanism, of work-holding means, means to move the work-holding means on the frame thereby to move the work carried thereby relative to the stitch,- forming mechanism, a fixed and a movable thread-clamping jaw mounted on the workholding means, a cam projection rigid with the movable jaw, a swinging actuator cal ried by the frame and adapted to engage said cam projection during the movement of the work-holding means thereby to cause the jaws to clamp the needle thread at the end of the stitching operation and to release the needle thread at the beginning of the next succeeding stitching operation, and adj ustable means to limit the swinging movement of the actuator.

11. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitchforming mechanism including a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, of work-holding means, means to give said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism a relative movement, a pair of relatively-movable thread-clamping jaws carried by the work-holding means, and a swinging actuator carried by said frame and rendered operative by the relative movement of said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism to open momentarily the threadclamping jaws at the end of the stitching operation thereby to permit the needle thread to be carried between them and clamped thereby.

12. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with a frame carrying stitchforming mechanism including a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, of work-holding means, means to give said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism a relative movement, a pair of relatively-movable thread-clamping jaws carried by the work-holding means, and a swinging actuator carried by said frame and rendered operative by the relative movement of said work-holding means and stitch-forming mechanism to open momentarily the threadclamping jaws at the end of the stitching operation thereby to permit the needle thread to be carried between them and clamped thereby and to release said thread when the stitching has been commenced on the next succeeding buttonhole.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification. I

FRANK ZALESKI.

flopies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Eatents,

, Washington, I). G. 

